Day 1 — Centro Storico: first encounter with Spaccanapoli
🚶 Start in the heart of the city: walk the Spaccanapoli axis from Piazza del Gesù Nuovo to the Monastery of Santa Chiara (Chiostro di Santa Chiara) and then toward Piazza San Domenico Maggiore. Narrow “decumani,” the smell of espresso from bars, the buzz of mopeds, and the glow of limestone—this is the sure “key” to the Neapolitan rhythm. The walking pace is unhurried: 3–4 hours with coffee and pastry stops (sfogliatella/zeppola). In the evening, head up to Piazza Bellini—the square of students and antique shops—or turn onto via San Gregorio Armeno, where nativity figurines are made year-round.